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Lisboa, Portugal to Hanoi, Vietnam : 22 June 2018 to 20 March 2020
29 countries, 24830km, 21 months… 369 days actually cycling
Part II : Asia (mostly)
Last updated 23/03/2020
If anyone wants to know any other irrelevant numbers from our trip so far, let us know!
TRIP
- currently in Lisboa, Portugal…
- # days: 389
- # days-off cycling: 147
- # kms: 17499
- # countries: 15
- # most hours ahead of GMT : 8
- average daily expenditure (for two people – all in): 20€
- longest distance cycled in one day: 148km
- # soakings by rain: 6
- # snow-induced tent days: 2
- # most days of consecutive rain: 0
- # falls: P-3 : S-0
- #bouts of sickness: P- 5: S-6
- highest high: 4708m (Kuluke pass, China)
- highest sleep: 4655m (just after Rabbit pass, China)
- hottest hot: atleast 45° in Uzbekistan
- longest tunnel: 5.7km!!! (on the way to Litang)
- most tunnels in one day: 34 (covering 22km!)
- lost (but not forgotten) items: one foam sleeping mat :'(, Sarah’s cap, Pedro’s body fat
- most number of countries in one day : 2
HYGIENE & SLEEP
- # longest number of days without a conventional shower: …18… ?
- # ocean swims: 16
- # river and lake swims: P-16 : S-14
- # mud baths: 1
- # sulfur baths: 4
- # washing machines per 1000km: 1.45
- # toilet rolls purchased: 0 🙂
- # sleeps in a bed: 126
- # naps in the hammock: 7
- Types of sleep:
ALTERNATIVE TRANSPORT
- # ferries: 2
- # river ferries: 4
- # sailing boat: 1
- # trains: 6
- # buses: 5
- # lifts in a car: 6
- # lifts in a truck: 5
FOOD
- kg of rice and lentils: 25…. We really have no idea…
- most kg of oats carried at one time: 3kg
- most expensive bag of oats: 5$ per kg!! In Cambodia
- fire baked breads: 10
- fire baked breads eaten by a dog: 1
- best Sarah-friendly country: … Thailand?
- best
chocolate cakeice-cream: Tbilisi! - best camping dinner: pancakes!!! // potato and cauliflower curry // mashed potatoes and tomato lentils cooked above 4000m
- most desperate camping dinner: millet and beetroot concoction which decided not to cook after being in the stove for 40 minutes
MECHANICALS
- # punctures: P – 4 : S – 2
- # broken chains: P – 4: S – 1
- # new pairs of brake pads: P – 7 : S – 5… plus some
- # broken rearhubs: P – 1: S – 2
- # broken seat post bolts: 1
- # broken rack bolts: 1
- # bent frames: 1
- # bent derailleurs: 1
- # cracked rear wheels: 2
CURIOUS CREATURES
- Bulgaria : black squirrel // chorus of
wolves foxeswolves howling - Turkey : hawks // red squiggles // baby frogs // big lizards // small lizards // storks // herons // kingfisher // one camel // tortoises // turtles // baby crab // flying fish // ginormous sea urchins // up close woodpeckers
- Georgia : …the drivers
- Armenia : snakes big and small // bee-eating spiders // some beautiful lizards, but sadly only as road kill
- Iran : lizards as big as dinosaurs // giant unidentified gross looking grasshoppers/crickets/locusts // tortoise // ostrich ? // pigeons in a cave
- Turkmenistan : camels!
- Uzbekistan : dragonflies // prairie dogs // amazingly bright blue birds
- Tajikistan : yaks // marmots
- Kyrgyzstan : all off the horses // camels!
- Kazakhstan : some sort of gerbil-like critter // praying mantis // tiny tiny snakes
- China : yaks // plateau pikas // mountain weasel // ginormous birds of prey // Chinese monkeys // Tibetan woolly hare // joro spider // water buffalo // dogs dressed as humans
- Laos : water buffalo // ginormous milipede // ginormous grasshopper // elephants! // loads beautiful butterflies
- Thailand : lizards the size of dinosaurs aka water monitor lizards longer than Sarah // snakes bigger than you would wish to encounter // crazy ass beautiful birds // fireflies // gangs of monkeys // zebus // tokay
- Cambodia : tokay // zebus // toucan // ostrich!!
- Vietnam : termites!! // water buffalo // enormous spiders
FORAGING AND SCRUMPING
- February/March – Bulgaria : … It was February
- March/April – Turkey : Pomegranates
- April/May – Georgia : …
- May – Armenia : mint // oregano // white mulberries
- May/June – Iran : thyme // white mulberries
- July/August – Tajikistan : apricots!
- August/September – Kyrgyzstan : plums // apples
- September/October – Kazakhstan : –
- Oct/Nov/Dec – China : pears // unripe persimmons
- December – Laos : –
- Dec/Jan – Thailand : –
- February – Cambodian : mangoes!
DEFINING FOODS
- Bulgaria : white “feta” cheese // pumpkin seed butter // homemade wine
- Turkey : tahini // grape molasses // string cheese // ayran // carrot halva // çay // Turkish coffee // roasted chickpeas // fresh almonds with salt // hazelnuts
- Georgia : khachapuri // walnut paste with grilled aubergine or greens // good wine // bad beer // corn breads // red beans in a pot // khinkali // italian ice-cream! // very sweet mystery flavoured lemonade
- Armenia : lots of fresh herbs // asparagus // lavash // luminous green lemonade // honey & sunflower seed snacks
- Iran : rose petal jam // tahini again 🙂 // melon // watermelon // more melon // eating cucumbers whole // rose ice-cream // doogh // sour plums // strawberries// tomato and eggs // piles of fresh herbs
- Uzbekistan : melon // watermelon // tea like water in our bottles // fizzy yoghurt
- Tajikistan : fresh apricots // dried apricots // apricot kernels // dried mulberries // yak milk ice-cream // yak milk yogurt // yak milk butter
- Kyrgyzstan : no vegetables // all of the homemade dairy products //buckwheat // potato noodles // plaited smoked cheese // чцм чцм sauce
- Kazakhstan : birthday brownie 😉 // apples
- China : rice!! // tofu // mushrooms // spices 🙂 // green beans // weird but good chewy milk candies // fried greens // fish flavoured aubergine // scrambled egg and tomato
- Laos : sticky rice // noodle soups // coconut pancakes // iced coffee // fruit smoothies // baby bananas // tasty tropical fruits
- Thailand : pineapples // lots and lots of bananas // rose apple // som tam // all of the coconut dishes // sticky rice steamed in bamboo // coconut banana rice treats wrapped in banana leaves // rambutan // jackfruit // longan // papaya // sapodilla
- Cambodia: peek-a-pot lunches // fried banana // the most delicious mangoes // fresh sugar cane juice
- Vietnam: yummy tofu // worst fried rice in Asia // delicious coffee // pho // pineapples // bananas // jackfruit
PER COUNTRY
- Bulgaria : 8 days // 0 days off // 478 km // highest high 1435m (Pirin) // кафе 0.35€ // 8€ per day for two //
- Turkey: 50 days // 18 days off // 2502 km // highest high 2380m (Gölyurt Geçidi) // Çay 0.16€ // 7 teas bought // atleast 30 teas offered // 12€ per day for two //
- Georgia: 8 days // 8 days off // 547 km // highest high 2169m (Ughelt. Tukmatash) // 8€ per day for two //
- Armenia: 13 days // 1 day off // 690km and 11000m of climbing! // highest high 2410m (Selim Pass) // six 2000m+ passes // 10€ per day for two //
- Iran: 46 days // 27 day off // 1383km// highest high 2000m (Uraman Takht) // 14€ per day for two including visas and transport//
- Turkmenistan: 3 days // 3 day off // 56km and 2 trains // highest high -m // 51€ per day for two (with 134$ on visas and taxes!!!) //
- Uzbekistan: 8 days // 2 days off // 525 km // highest high 913m (at the Tajik border) // 20€ per day for two!! //
- Tajikistan: 39 days // 13 days off // 1421 km // highest high 4655m (Ak Baital pass) // 400+km above 3000m // 18€ per day for two //
- Kyrgyzstan: 27 days // 9 days off // 1182km // highest high 3843m (Arabiel Pass) // minimum number of cars per day – 1 // 14€ per day for two //
- Kazakhstan: 17 days // 7 days off // 764 km // highest high 1900m (at the Kyrgyzstan border) // 18 € per day for two //
- China: 59 days // 19 days off // 2775km // highest high 4708m (Kuluku pass) // 18€ per day for two //
- Laos: 12 days // 2 days off // 732km // highest high 1440m (Phouthat) // 14€ per day for two //
- Thailand: 38 days // 20 day off // 1667 km // highest high not very many () // 14€ per day for two //
- Cambodia: 16 days // 5 days off // 953 km // highest high not very many () // 17€ per day for two (inc visas) //
- Laos v2: 11 days // 5 days off // 446 km // highest high not very many () // 20€ per day for two (inc visas) //
- Vietnam : 27 days // 11 day off // 1349 km // highest high 1153m (Heaven Gate pass) // 20€ per day for two (inc visas) //
Part I : Europe
Last updated 20/12/18
If anyone wants to know any other irrelevant numbers from our trip so far, let us know!
TRIP
- # days: 183
- # days-off cycling: 56
- # kms: 7331
- # countries: 14
- longest distance cycled in one day: 95km
- # soakings by rain: 5
- # most days of consecutive rain: 5
- # falls: 2 (both by Pedro, one from a bench)
- highest high: 2236m (Passo Giau)… or 2330m (Rifugio Auronzo) … But we pushed for atleast 2km !!
- longest tunnel: 1.7km (Vercors, cycling up!)
- lost (but not forgotten) items: opinel, sunglasses case, sunglasses case replacement (a sock), pink cloth, one of Pedro’s socks, wooden spoon, Shiny…
- most number of countries in one day : 3 (Austria – Switzerland – Italy)
HYGIENE & SLEEP
- # longest number of days without a conventional shower: 8
- # ocean swims: 16?!
- # river swims: … lost
ingcount - # washing machines per 1000km: 1.09
- # sleeps in a bed: 66
- # naps in the hammock: 7
- Types of sleep:
ALTERNATIVE TRANSPORT
- # ferries: 2 – Kotor bay, Montenegro // Komani Lake, Albania
- # trains: 1 – Barcelona
- # lifts in a car: 2 – Joan, Spain (in heavy rain) // Wertach (to a bike shop to replace a broken free hub)
FOOD
- kg of rice: 16… atleast
- best Sarah-friendly country: Spain and surprisingly, Italy
- best chocolate cake: Oberölgart up the hill from Bolzano
- best camping dinner: shakshuka // veggie curry
- most desperate camping dinner: gluten free pasta which turned to starchy mush when cooked, seasoned with nothing but garlic, not even salt… yum …
MECHANICALS
- # punctures: P – 9…, S – 4
- # broken chains: 4!!
- # squiffy wheel bearings: 1
- # squiffy headset bearings: 2
- # new brake pads: too many! (Every 1500k?!?)
- # replaced freehubs: 1
- # punctures in sleeping mats: 2
- # retired sleeping mats: 3 (2 replaced free of charge by thermarest)
CURIOUS CREATURES
- Portugal: fireflies // slowworm // stag beetle // woodpeckers // soggy kittens // amazing, but squashed, blue and yellow lizard…
- Spain: crayfish // many many storks // intimidating cows // TWO BAMBI !! // jelly fish // sea urchin // deceased mink
- France: bambi // marmot (I think) // red squirrels
- Germany: red squirrels // e-kids-cyclists
- Austria: stoat
- Italy: many non-grey varieties of squirrels // ibex (maybe) // mountain fox
- Slovenia: the largest earthworm ever (1cm diameter atleast // salamanders (mostly deceased)
- Croatia: lots and lots of chickens
- Bosnia i Herzegovina: kingfisher // many skinned wild pigs 🙁
- Montenegro: just more wild pigs // loads of squashed toads on the road 🙁
- Albania: lots of sleepy wild dogs
- Macedonia: it was too cold, everyone was hibernating
- Greece: bear (poo) // pelican // flamingos // less sleepy wild dogs
FORAGING AND SCRUMPING
- June/July – Portugal : cherries // plums // unripe peaches // cabbage // mint // rosemary
- July/August – Spain : beldroegas (purslane) // mint // cherries // figs // all of the plums – big ones, small ones, yellow ones, purple ones // blackberries
- August/September – France : figs // blackberries // nectarines (so ripe we could smell them across the road) // plums // grapes // apples // walnuts (just before we left)
- September/October – Germany : grapes (from warmshower garden and not) // apples // pears // plums
- October – Austria : apples
- October – Italy : apples // chestnuts
- October/November – Slovenia : just lots of rain
- November – Croatia : a single walnut
- November – BiH : pomegranates and a very unripe kaki
- November/December – Montenegro : pomegranates // medronhos
- December – Albania : medronhos // grapes // ftu (quince)
- December – Greece : apples // kaki
DEFINING FOODS
- Portugal : cabbage
- Spain : tortilla
- France : mustard
- Switzerland : swiss chocolate
- Germany : apfelstrudel
- Austria :
- Italy : polenta // gnocchi
- Slovenia : buckwheat // millet
- Croatia : cheap cheesy chocolate // peanut flips
- Bosnia i Herzegovina : rakija // tahini
- Montenegro : local wine
- Albania : avjar // tasty cheese // olives
- Macedonia : more avjar // more halva
- Greece : tahini // halva // sesame bars
PER COUNTRY
-
- Portugal : 18 days // 4 days off // 733 km // highest high 1167m (Serra do Montemuro) // 50€ per person per week // galão ~ 1€ // 5 gelados
- Spain : 40 days // 13 days off // 1760 km // highest high 1625m (Las Señales) // 50€ per person per week // cafe con leche ~ 1.20€ // many tortilla // 8 helados
- France : 34 days // 11 days off // 1401 km // highest high 1513m (Col de Ares) // 55€ per person per week // cafe au lait ~ 2.60€!! // 1 jar of Dijon mustard // 8 types of cheese // 2 glacé
- Switzerland : 1 day // 75 km // 1 bar of chocolate
- Germany : 14 days // 7 days off // 556 km // highest high 1090m (Rotes Kreuz) // 50€ per person per week // kaffee mit milch ~ 3.50€!!! // 3 apfelstrudel for P // 3 local beers
- Austria : 3 days // 148km // highest high 1894m (Hahtennjoch)
- Italy : 16 days // 3 days off // 466km // highest high 2236m (Passo Giau)… or 2330m (Rifugio Auronzo) … But we pushed for atleast 2km !! // café latte ~ 2€ // much polenta // 3 gnocchi // 2 gelado // 1 pizza
- Slovenia : 11 days // 5 days off // 6 days of torrential rain // 320km // highest high 1281m (Soriška Planina) // café latte ~ 2€ // much buckwheat and millet
- Croatia : 3 days // no days off // 233 km // highest high 1185m (Frkašić) // kava sa slagom (coffee with whipped cream ordered by accident…) 8KN (1€)
- Bosnia i Herzegovina : 14 days // 5 days off // 517km // highest high 1412m (Donji Dabio) // bijela kava 1KM (50 cents) // one greasy cheese burek // one set of frozen water bottles
- Montenegro : 10 days // 3 days off // 348 km // highest high 1254m // kava 0€ (someone offered to pay) // one very frosty tent
- Albania : 9 days // 3 days off // 336 km // highest high 1200m (Ploshtan, between Kukes and Perishkopi in the snow) // kafe 0€ (offered again) // a snow covered tent
- Macedonia : 2 days // no days off // 101 km // highest high 850m (Trpejca) // frozen toes and fingers // a lot of punctures
- Greece : 7 days // 2 days off // 334 km // highest high 1088m (Krystallopigi) // καφές 1€ // more frozen toes and fingers // hot springs // hibernation