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Lisboa, Portugal to Hanoi, Vietnam : 22 June 2018 to 20 March 2020

29 countries, 24830km, 21 months… 369 days actually cycling

Part II : Asia (mostly)

Last updated 23/03/2020

If anyone wants to know any other irrelevant numbers from our trip so far, let us know!

TRIP

  • currently in Lisboa, Portugal…
  • # days: 389
  • # days-off cycling: 147
  • # kms: 17499
  • # countries: 15
  • # most hours ahead of GMT : 8
  • average daily expenditure (for two people – all in): 20€
  • longest distance cycled in one day: 148km
  • # soakings by rain: 6
  • # snow-induced tent days: 2
  • # most days of consecutive rain: 0
  • # falls: P-3 : S-0
  • #bouts of sickness: P- 5: S-6
  • highest high: 4708m (Kuluke pass, China)
  • highest sleep: 4655m (just after Rabbit pass, China)
  • hottest hot: atleast 45° in Uzbekistan
  • longest tunnel: 5.7km!!! (on the way to Litang)
  • most tunnels in one day: 34 (covering 22km!)
  • lost (but not forgotten) items: one foam sleeping mat :'(, Sarah’s cap, Pedro’s body fat
  • most number of countries in one day : 2

HYGIENE & SLEEP

  • # longest number of days without a conventional shower: …18… 🤣
  • # ocean swims: 16
  • # river and lake swims: P-16 : S-14
  • # mud baths: 1
  • # sulfur baths: 4
  • # washing machines per 1000km: 1.45
  • # toilet rolls purchased: 0 🙂
  • # sleeps in a bed: 126
  • # naps in the hammock: 7
  • Types of sleep:

ALTERNATIVE TRANSPORT

  • # ferries: 2
  • # river ferries: 4
  • # sailing boat: 1
  • # trains: 6
  • # buses: 5
  • # lifts in a car: 6
  • # lifts in a truck: 5

FOOD

  • kg of rice and lentils: 25…. We really have no idea…
  • most kg of oats carried at one time: 3kg
  • most expensive bag of oats: 5$ per kg!! In Cambodia
  • fire baked breads: 10
  • fire baked breads eaten by a dog: 1
  • best Sarah-friendly country: … Thailand?
  • best chocolate cake ice-cream: Tbilisi!
  • best camping dinner: pancakes!!! // potato and cauliflower curry // mashed potatoes and tomato lentils cooked above 4000m
  • most desperate camping dinner: millet and beetroot concoction which decided not to cook after being in the stove for 40 minutes

MECHANICALS

  • # punctures: P – 4 : S – 2
  • # broken chains: P – 4: S – 1
  • # new pairs of brake pads: P – 7 : S – 5… plus some
  • # broken rearhubs: P – 1: S – 2
  • # broken seat post bolts: 1
  • # broken rack bolts: 1
  • # bent frames: 1
  • # bent derailleurs: 1
  • # cracked rear wheels: 2

CURIOUS CREATURES

  • Bulgaria : black squirrel // chorus of wolves foxes wolves howling
  • Turkey : hawks // red squiggles // baby frogs // big lizards // small lizards // storks // herons // kingfisher // one camel // tortoises // turtles // baby crab // flying fish // ginormous sea urchins // up close woodpeckers
  • Georgia : …the drivers
  • Armenia : snakes big and small // bee-eating spiders // some beautiful lizards, but sadly only as road kill
  • Iran : lizards as big as dinosaurs // giant unidentified gross looking grasshoppers/crickets/locusts // tortoise // ostrich 😂 // pigeons in a cave
  • Turkmenistan : camels!
  • Uzbekistan : dragonflies // prairie dogs // amazingly bright blue birds
  • Tajikistan : yaks // marmots
  • Kyrgyzstan : all off the horses // camels!
  • Kazakhstan : some sort of gerbil-like critter // praying mantis // tiny tiny snakes
  • China : yaks // plateau pikas // mountain weasel // ginormous birds of prey // Chinese monkeys // Tibetan woolly hare // joro spider // water buffalo // dogs dressed as humans
  • Laos : water buffalo // ginormous milipede // ginormous grasshopper // elephants! // loads beautiful butterflies
  • Thailand : lizards the size of dinosaurs aka water monitor lizards longer than Sarah // snakes bigger than you would wish to encounter // crazy ass beautiful birds // fireflies // gangs of monkeys // zebus // tokay
  • Cambodia : tokay // zebus // toucan // ostrich!!
  • Vietnam : termites!! // water buffalo // enormous spiders

FORAGING AND SCRUMPING

  • February/March – Bulgaria : … It was February
  • March/April – Turkey : Pomegranates
  • April/May – Georgia : …
  • May – Armenia : mint // oregano // white mulberries
  • May/June – Iran : thyme // white mulberries
  • July/August – Tajikistan : apricots!
  • August/September – Kyrgyzstan : plums // apples
  • September/October – Kazakhstan : –
  • Oct/Nov/Dec – China : pears // unripe persimmons
  • December – Laos : –
  • Dec/Jan – Thailand : –
  • February – Cambodian : mangoes!

DEFINING FOODS

  • Bulgaria : white “feta” cheese // pumpkin seed butter // homemade wine
  • Turkey : tahini // grape molasses // string cheese // ayran // carrot halva // çay // Turkish coffee // roasted chickpeas // fresh almonds with salt // hazelnuts
  • Georgia : khachapuri // walnut paste with grilled aubergine or greens // good wine // bad beer // corn breads // red beans in a pot // khinkali // italian ice-cream! // very sweet mystery flavoured lemonade
  • Armenia : lots of fresh herbs // asparagus // lavash // luminous green lemonade // honey & sunflower seed snacks
  • Iran : rose petal jam // tahini again 🙂 // melon // watermelon // more melon // eating cucumbers whole // rose ice-cream // doogh // sour plums // strawberries// tomato and eggs // piles of fresh herbs
  • Uzbekistan : melon // watermelon // tea like water in our bottles // fizzy yoghurt
  • Tajikistan : fresh apricots // dried apricots // apricot kernels // dried mulberries // yak milk ice-cream // yak milk yogurt // yak milk butter
  • Kyrgyzstan : no vegetables // all of the homemade dairy products //buckwheat // potato noodles // plaited smoked cheese // чцм чцм sauce
  • Kazakhstan : birthday brownie 😉 // apples
  • China : rice!! // tofu // mushrooms // spices 🙂 // green beans // weird but good chewy milk candies // fried greens // fish flavoured aubergine // scrambled egg and tomato
  • Laos : sticky rice // noodle soups // coconut pancakes // iced coffee // fruit smoothies // baby bananas // tasty tropical fruits
  • Thailand : pineapples // lots and lots of bananas // rose apple // som tam // all of the coconut dishes // sticky rice steamed in bamboo // coconut banana rice treats wrapped in banana leaves // rambutan // jackfruit // longan // papaya // sapodilla
  • Cambodia: peek-a-pot lunches // fried banana // the most delicious mangoes // fresh sugar cane juice
  • Vietnam: yummy tofu // worst fried rice in Asia // delicious coffee // pho // pineapples // bananas // jackfruit

PER COUNTRY

  • Bulgaria : 8 days // 0 days off // 478 km // highest high 1435m (Pirin) // кафе 0.35€ // 8€ per day for two //
  • Turkey: 50 days // 18 days off // 2502 km // highest high 2380m (Gölyurt Geçidi) // Çay 0.16€ // 7 teas bought // atleast 30 teas offered // 12€ per day for two //
  • Georgia: 8 days // 8 days off // 547 km // highest high 2169m (Ughelt. Tukmatash) // 8€ per day for two //
  • Armenia: 13 days // 1 day off // 690km and 11000m of climbing! // highest high 2410m (Selim Pass) // six 2000m+ passes // 10€ per day for two //
  • Iran: 46 days // 27 day off // 1383km// highest high 2000m (Uraman Takht) // 14€ per day for two including visas and transport//
  • Turkmenistan: 3 days // 3 day off // 56km and 2 trains // highest high -m // 51€ per day for two (with 134$ on visas and taxes!!!) //
  • Uzbekistan: 8 days // 2 days off // 525 km // highest high 913m (at the Tajik border) // 20€ per day for two!! //
  • Tajikistan: 39 days // 13 days off // 1421 km // highest high 4655m (Ak Baital pass) // 400+km above 3000m // 18€ per day for two //
  • Kyrgyzstan: 27 days // 9 days off // 1182km // highest high 3843m (Arabiel Pass) // minimum number of cars per day – 1 // 14€ per day for two //
  • Kazakhstan: 17 days // 7 days off // 764 km // highest high 1900m (at the Kyrgyzstan border) // 18 € per day for two //
  • China: 59 days // 19 days off // 2775km // highest high 4708m (Kuluku pass) // 18€ per day for two //
  • Laos: 12 days // 2 days off // 732km // highest high 1440m (Phouthat) // 14€ per day for two //
  • Thailand: 38 days // 20 day off // 1667 km // highest high not very many () // 14€ per day for two //
  • Cambodia: 16 days // 5 days off // 953 km // highest high not very many () // 17€ per day for two (inc visas) //
  • Laos v2: 11 days // 5 days off // 446 km // highest high not very many () // 20€ per day for two (inc visas) //
  • Vietnam : 27 days // 11 day off // 1349 km // highest high 1153m (Heaven Gate pass) // 20€ per day for two (inc visas) //

Part I : Europe

Last updated 20/12/18

If anyone wants to know any other irrelevant numbers from our trip so far, let us know!

TRIP

  • # days: 183
  • # days-off cycling: 56
  • # kms: 7331
  • # countries: 14
  • longest distance cycled in one day: 95km
  • # soakings by rain: 5
  • # most days of consecutive rain: 5
  • # falls: 2 (both by Pedro, one from a bench)
  • highest high: 2236m (Passo Giau)… or 2330m (Rifugio Auronzo) … But we pushed for atleast 2km !!
  • longest tunnel: 1.7km (Vercors, cycling up!)
  • lost (but not forgotten) items: opinel, sunglasses case, sunglasses case replacement (a sock), pink cloth, one of Pedro’s socks, wooden spoon, Shiny…
  • most number of countries in one day : 3 (Austria – Switzerland – Italy)

HYGIENE & SLEEP

  • # longest number of days without a conventional shower: 8
  • # ocean swims: 16?!
  • # river swims: … losting count
  • # washing machines per 1000km: 1.09
  • # sleeps in a bed: 66
  • # naps in the hammock: 7
  • Types of sleep:

ALTERNATIVE TRANSPORT

  • # ferries: 2 – Kotor bay, Montenegro // Komani Lake, Albania
  • # trains: 1 – Barcelona
  • # lifts in a car: 2 – Joan, Spain (in heavy rain) // Wertach (to a bike shop to replace a broken free hub)

FOOD

  • kg of rice: 16… atleast
  • best Sarah-friendly country: Spain and surprisingly, Italy
  • best chocolate cake: Oberölgart up the hill from Bolzano
  • best camping dinner: shakshuka // veggie curry
  • most desperate camping dinner: gluten free pasta which turned to starchy mush when cooked, seasoned with nothing but garlic, not even salt… yum …

MECHANICALS

  • # punctures: P – 9…, S – 4
  • # broken chains: 4!!
  • # squiffy wheel bearings: 1
  • # squiffy headset bearings: 2
  • # new brake pads: too many! (Every 1500k?!?)
  • # replaced freehubs: 1
  • # punctures in sleeping mats: 2
  • # retired sleeping mats: 3 (2 replaced free of charge by thermarest)

CURIOUS CREATURES

  • Portugal: fireflies // slowworm // stag beetle // woodpeckers // soggy kittens // amazing, but squashed, blue and yellow lizard…
  • Spain: crayfish // many many storks // intimidating cows // TWO BAMBI !! // jelly fish // sea urchin // deceased mink
  • France: bambi // marmot (I think) // red squirrels
  • Germany: red squirrels // e-kids-cyclists
  • Austria: stoat
  • Italy: many non-grey varieties of squirrels // ibex (maybe) // mountain fox
  • Slovenia: the largest earthworm ever (1cm diameter atleast // salamanders (mostly deceased)
  • Croatia: lots and lots of chickens
  • Bosnia i Herzegovina: kingfisher // many skinned wild pigs 🙁
  • Montenegro: just more wild pigs // loads of squashed toads on the road 🙁
  • Albania: lots of sleepy wild dogs
  • Macedonia: it was too cold, everyone was hibernating
  • Greece: bear (poo) // pelican // flamingos // less sleepy wild dogs

FORAGING AND SCRUMPING

  • June/July – Portugal : cherries // plums // unripe peaches // cabbage // mint // rosemary
  • July/August – Spain : beldroegas (purslane) // mint // cherries // figs // all of the plums – big ones, small ones, yellow ones, purple ones // blackberries
  • August/September – France : figs // blackberries // nectarines (so ripe we could smell them across the road) // plums // grapes // apples // walnuts (just before we left)
  • September/October – Germany : grapes (from warmshower garden and not) // apples // pears // plums
  • October – Austria : apples
  • October – Italy : apples // chestnuts
  • October/November – Slovenia : just lots of rain
  • November – Croatia : a single walnut
  • November – BiH : pomegranates and a very unripe kaki
  • November/December – Montenegro : pomegranates // medronhos
  • December – Albania : medronhos // grapes // ftu (quince)
  • December – Greece : apples // kaki

DEFINING FOODS

  • Portugal : cabbage
  • Spain : tortilla
  • France : mustard
  • Switzerland : swiss chocolate
  • Germany : apfelstrudel
  • Austria :
  • Italy : polenta // gnocchi
  • Slovenia : buckwheat // millet
  • Croatia : cheap cheesy chocolate // peanut flips
  • Bosnia i Herzegovina : rakija // tahini
  • Montenegro : local wine
  • Albania : avjar // tasty cheese // olives
  • Macedonia : more avjar // more halva
  • Greece : tahini // halva // sesame bars

PER COUNTRY

    • Portugal : 18 days // 4 days off // 733 km // highest high 1167m (Serra do Montemuro) // 50€ per person per week // galão ~ 1€ // 5 gelados
    • Spain : 40 days // 13 days off // 1760 km // highest high 1625m (Las Señales) // 50€ per person per week // cafe con leche ~ 1.20€ // many tortilla // 8 helados
    • France : 34 days // 11 days off // 1401 km // highest high 1513m (Col de Ares) // 55€ per person per week // cafe au lait ~ 2.60€!! // 1 jar of Dijon mustard // 8 types of cheese // 2 glacé
    • Switzerland : 1 day // 75 km // 1 bar of chocolate
    • Germany : 14 days // 7 days off // 556 km // highest high 1090m (Rotes Kreuz) // 50€ per person per week // kaffee mit milch ~ 3.50€!!! // 3 apfelstrudel for P // 3 local beers
    • Austria : 3 days // 148km // highest high 1894m (Hahtennjoch)
    • Italy : 16 days // 3 days off // 466km // highest high 2236m (Passo Giau)… or 2330m (Rifugio Auronzo) … But we pushed for atleast 2km !! // café latte ~ 2€ // much polenta // 3 gnocchi // 2 gelado // 1 pizza
    • Slovenia : 11 days // 5 days off // 6 days of torrential rain // 320km // highest high 1281m (Soriška Planina) // café latte ~ 2€ // much buckwheat and millet
    • Croatia : 3 days // no days off // 233 km // highest high 1185m (Frkašić) // kava sa slagom (coffee with whipped cream ordered by accident…) 8KN (1€)
  • Bosnia i Herzegovina : 14 days // 5 days off // 517km // highest high 1412m (Donji Dabio) // bijela kava 1KM (50 cents) // one greasy cheese burek // one set of frozen water bottles
  • Montenegro : 10 days // 3 days off // 348 km // highest high 1254m // kava 0€ (someone offered to pay) // one very frosty tent
  • Albania : 9 days // 3 days off // 336 km // highest high 1200m (Ploshtan, between Kukes and Perishkopi in the snow) // kafe 0€ (offered again) // a snow covered tent
  • Macedonia : 2 days // no days off // 101 km // highest high 850m (Trpejca) // frozen toes and fingers // a lot of punctures
  • Greece : 7 days // 2 days off // 334 km // highest high 1088m (Krystallopigi) // καφές 1€ // more frozen toes and fingers // hot springs // hibernation

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